Range of Light Photography™ - 最新留言 - A Darkroom Portrait http://www.rangeoflightphotography.com Fine Art Gelatin Silver Prints by Ben Dewell Fri, 29 Mar 2024 01:39:58 -0700 Fri, 29 Mar 2024 01:39:58 -0700 http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss Zenphoto Comment RSS Generator A Darkroom Portrait 由 jim werner Hello, I read with interest your discussion and design of your enlarger baseboard. How do you assure the alignment of the baseboard to the enlarger head. It seems as if you would need to align the enlarger each time you moved the baseboard. I suppose it would be limited with careful design. THX and BTW your work is wonderful jim werner Jim, One needs to align the enlarger head with the printing paper on the baseboard (or easel) every time a new enlargement occurs, if all parts of the print are to remain in sharp focus. This is true with all printing positions, either with wall mounts or enlarger columns attached to baseboards. There are tools available to achieve proper alignment. An important consideration is that your enlarger head be adjustable, in order to achieve a good parallel projection from the negative stage and lens to the paper. When I installed my wall-mounted enlarger, I simply made certain the head was generally level to the "drop table" baseboard. All subsequent adjustments are performed at the 3 point adjustable enlarger head with the aid of a laser alignment tool on the easel (baseboard). I always print with the use of an easel, never directly upon the baseboard, although that is certainly possible. It is also worth noting that no enlarging head will likely maintain adequate alignment (to the paper) as it travels up and down its column, attached baseboard or not. Thu, 31 Jan 2013 15:03:11 -0800 A Darkroom Portrait 由 Alejandro Thanks a lot for the reply. I'll let you know how it goes. Tue, 14 Feb 2012 20:02:01 -0800 A Darkroom Portrait 由 Ben Alejandro, You are quite right that plywood, marine grade or otherwise, is basically available in standard 8 foot sheets. My sink is pieced together in 8 foot (or shorter) sections, with silicone caulked seams. The bottom "floor" of the sink is joined by screwing the floor sections together with 2X2's running along the seam under the sink, and at every two feet for extra strength. Remember that my process sink is built wall to wall to wall, running the full length of the lab, and so is unusually stable – almost like a built in shelf, hanging from the walls and supported by 2X4 struts. Silicone was used to fill screw hole countersinks and other voids, and then sanded smooth. To ease drainage, the sink should rake towards your drain at about one quarter inch per foot. I don't recommend Gel–Coat, unless you are already proficient in its use. Most home built sinks typically use marine epoxy (hardware, boating stores), or straight epoxy resins. Epoxy itself, can result in quite an ugly sink, but the beauty only needs to be evident in your prints! There are probably other waterproofing solutions available these days at the home stores, such as resin based garage floor sealers, which may be easier to apply and just as durable. It may be worth experimenting with some of these newer options, on a smaller sink such as yours. In order to ease the flow of water and chemicals, the surface should be as smooth and durable as possible. Thanks for the praise. The ability to help others in their pursuits and the occasional "attaboy" are all I need to keep publishing these articles. :) Tue, 14 Feb 2012 18:38:36 -0800 A Darkroom Portrait 由 Alejandro Mora Hi Ben, As I'm researching in order to build my very first real darkroom (I don't count my brief experience with one in my small bathroom) I stumbled upon your great site. I love your setup and before even seeing yours, my sketches seem very similar. I have many questions I could ask you but my main one is regarding the sink. I too plan on making mine out of Marine grade plywood but I can only find it in 8' planks. I therefore assume you joined a few pieces together to make your drool-worthy sink. Can you tell me how you did this and if you have any tips? I wanted to make mine about 11' - 12' long to comfortably print up to 16x20 but perhaps someday going to even 20x24. Since you don't recommend Gel-Coat, what would you recommend? I was thinking several coats of an epoxy paint. Thank you very much in advance, and for creating such an instructional site! Alejandro Alejandro Mora Tue, 14 Feb 2012 17:50:53 -0800